Purito Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree Serum

It's a multi-target treatment serum for oily, combination, and acne-prone skin dealing with three overlapping concerns: active breakouts and congestion, post-acne redness and marks, and uneven skin tone or dark spots. The formula combines 10% azelaic acid — a clinically established active for both acne and pigmentation — with 10% tea tree leaf water for antibacterial and anti-inflammatory support, and kojic acid at 1,000ppm for brightening. It addresses the full cycle of a breakout: the active spot, the redness during healing, and the mark left behind.

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that occurs naturally in grains. In skincare it works through two distinct mechanisms simultaneously. For acne: it has antibacterial activity against Cutibacterium acnes (the bacteria implicated in acne), reduces keratinocyte proliferation that leads to pore blockage, and has anti-inflammatory properties that calm active redness. For pigmentation: it inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that triggers melanin production, which gradually reduces post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and evens skin tone. At 10% — the clinically studied threshold — both mechanisms are active. This makes it one of the few ingredients that genuinely addresses acne and its aftermath in a single step.

No — tea tree leaf water and tea tree oil are different ingredients with different properties and different tolerability profiles. Tea tree oil is a concentrated essential oil that can cause irritation and sensitisation, particularly at higher concentrations. Tea tree leaf water is the hydrosol — the water-soluble portion separated from the distillation process — which retains antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties but is significantly gentler. At 10% as a formula base rather than an isolated oil, it provides sustained antimicrobial and calming support throughout the formula without the irritation risk that undiluted tea tree oil carries. This is a deliberate formulation choice by Purito, not a compromise.

Kojic acid is a tyrosinase inhibitor — like azelaic acid, it reduces melanin production, but through a slightly different pathway, making the combination additive in its brightening effect. At 1,000ppm (0.1%) in a leave-on serum it is at the lower end of the functional range, but it works in direct synergy with the 10% azelaic acid and the glutathione also present in the formula. Glutathione is an antioxidant that also inhibits melanin synthesis. The brightening stack here — kojic acid, azelaic acid, glutathione, niacinamide, and malachite extract — achieves its effect through layered mechanisms rather than a single high-concentration ingredient. Results on tone evening and dark spot fading are gradual and cumulative: expect visible improvement from 6–8 weeks of consistent use.

Azelaic acid is one of the better-tolerated acids in skincare — significantly gentler than AHAs or retinoids at equivalent potency. It does not cause photosensitivity and is considered safe during pregnancy, which reflects its tolerability profile. That said, at 10% some people experience mild tingling or temporary redness on first use, which typically subsides within the first two weeks as the skin adjusts. If your skin is sensitive, introduce it every other evening rather than twice daily, and avoid layering it with other active acids. The formula also contains bisabolol and niacinamide which actively work to offset irritation. Clinically reactive or eczema-prone skin should patch test first.

After cleansing and toning, before moisturiser. Apply 2–3 drops, spread evenly, and allow 60–90 seconds to absorb before the next step. Do not layer it directly with vitamin C (ascorbic acid) as both are acidic and can cause irritation and instability when combined; use vitamin C in the morning and this serum in the evening. Avoid using it the same evening as retinol or other AHA/BHA exfoliants — too many actives on the skin at once increases irritation risk without proportionally increasing benefit. Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, centella, and ceramide products all pair well with it.

The timeline differs by concern. Acne and redness respond faster — reduced breakout frequency and calmer active spots are typically noticeable within 2–4 weeks of regular use. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark marks from healed spots) takes longer because melanin reduction is a gradual biological process — visible fading usually begins around week 6–8 and continues improving over 3–4 months. Pore appearance and overall texture improvement also fall in the 6–8 week range. This is not an instant-result product; it is a consistent-use treatment. SPF use during the day is essential — UV exposure directly counteracts the pigmentation-reducing work of both azelaic and kojic acid.